Sunday, September 25, 2011

The Individual Omani's relationship with the Sultan



My father was showing me photo albums filled with old family photographs.  Most of the photos were of his family, his father’s family, and his cousins.  Then, he took out another album but, this one was different than the previous ones he had so proudly showed me.  This densely filled album had many photographs of the Sultan Qaboos.  It had photographs taken from the internet and newspapers.  The Sultan as a toddler, Sultan Qaboos as a teenager, Sultan Qaboos as a young adult, and so on.  Photographs of major events in his life in the press were clipped from newspapers and saved in this cherished album.  
I understand the immense respect and praise of the Sultan but to the extent of saving an album of press photographs of his life in one’s home was a bit shocking for me.  Do a lot of people do this in Oman or in countries around the world?  Do many people in other countries (other than America) choose a famous public figure they praise and keep photographs and articles on their lives in an album or scrapbook?  Is collecting the publicity of someone’s life a common thing to do?  

Saturday, September 24, 2011

The Men who Wear Eye Makeup


Salalah



Going to Salalah in the morning.  What I expect after reading about it. It’s the capital of the South of Oman provincial region of Dhofar.  There are about 200,000 residents living in this beautiful city of vast green tropical vegetation, desert sands, and beautiful large canyons.  As if that could not get any better, the beach is there as well and a world class port in Salalah gets shipments from around the world.  
The Sultan Qaboos bin Said was actually born in Salalah!  It is the second largest city in Oman.  Muscat is the largest, the one I live in.  
Salalah was important in history because of the Frankincense found in the trees.  I read somewhere that Frankincense actually used to be more valuable than...gold.  The Boswellia family own these trees and they have medicinal power.  

Female Circumcision in Oman?

The thing is...FGM (Female Genital Mutilation) is banned in Oman, but Skype is also banned and we can still do this.  
I was both enlightened and saddened after having the privilege of reading Dr. Nawal El Saadawi’s book, “The Hidden Face of Eve” during my summer in Jordan.  The author is one of the bravest women I know about and one of my heroes.  An Egyptian has spent years as a doctor in impoverished villages.   Through this experience, she was granted rare access to the women of these villages and their most intimate and painful secrets.  Secrets that otherwise may have remained locked up in the shadows of their minds forever.  She has helped these women by making their stories known (anonymously) as she has authored over 50 books in her lifetime.  Being a woman who has been ambushed and circumcised against her will at a young age with no medication has given her even more of an experience and understanding among those women she writes about. She has been a voice for women in being stronger and growing from their most private and painful experiences.  She spent time imprisoned in Egypt for her outspokenness in her writing.  Nowadays, she can be seen, 80 years old, still standing up for the things she passionately believes in in Tahrir Square with the people in Egypt who are also protesting.  
My outlook on life was completely changed after reading one of her particular books and despite reading it several months ago, excerpts still linger in my head that I analyze and try to faintly fathom.  This book is timeless.  It was written in the 1970s, during the beginning of the major renaissance era in Oman that was only just beginning to emerge out of the middle ages (literally).  A time when his Majesty came into power and transformed the country into the peaceful developing destination it is quickly becoming now.  But tucked in the privacy of the quiet village homes throughout the region, there still remains some old-school practices.  
Apparently, according to a blog in wordpress.com, Omanis practice female circumcision on a smaller scale, they sadly remove the tip of the clitoris, unlike the African way of brutally slicing everything off.  I’m not sure which is worse.  Let me point out what I’ve learned in books, this is not an Islamic practice, it is outside the religion of Islam however, many people who practice Islam also have performed this on their children and grandchildren and throughout the generations to protect their girls from straying.  
One blog explained that her friend in Dakliyah (near Nizwa) took her 1 and a half year old daughter to have it done as she had it done when she was young too.  The hot weather in Oman can make women more sexually excited and this is not good according to these traditional and extremely conservative families in Nizwa and other more rural areas of Oman.  It can keep a woman safe from straying and having a partner before marriage which can destroy her hymen but it also destroys sex for her future marital life.  Reading this reminded me of what my Omani friend said to me the other day.  He is one of nearly 30 kids in the family who live in the same household.  His father has three wives.  I asked him why his father wanted so many and if he gets tired and his response was that his father does not get tired that the women can get tired.  He was telling me that his father has three wives for several reasons but one main reason is perhaps because they get tired during intercourse and that’s why many men still take more than one wife here.  I’m not sure if all of that is just true to his experience but there seems to be a lot of men with more than one wife here so that could be one reason of it.  
What’s interesting that the blog wrote is that that one and a half year old girl that recently was circumcised, her grandmother was threatened by her grandfather to divorce her if she allowed for another girl in their family to be circumcised.  The grandfather condemned the practice rather than the women in the family.  Maybe he knows how important it is for intercourse in marital relations for the future.  But men want their wives to be able to be stimulated in the future.  
How come this is still being practiced in Oman?
And to end this, I just wanted to put up my most favorite excerpt that sums up Nawal El Saadawi’s writings of truth:
“Writing: such has been my crime ever since I was a small child. To this day writing remains my crime. Now, although I am out of prison, I continue to live inside a prison of another sort, one without steel bars. For the technology of oppression and might without justice has become more advanced, and the fetters imposed on mind and body have become invisible. The most dangerous shackles are the invisible ones, because they deceive people into believing they are free. This delusion is the new prison that people inhabit today, north and south, east and west...We inhabit the age of the technology of false consciousness, the technology of hiding truths behind amiable humanistic slogans that may change from one era to another...Democracy is not just freedom to criticize the government or head of state, or to hold parliamentary elections. True democracy obtains only when the people - women, men, young people, children - have the ability to change the system of industrial capitalism that has oppressed them since the earliest days of slavery: a system based on class division, patriarchy, and military might, a hierarchical system that subjugates people merely because they are born poor, or female, or dark-skinned.” 

Oman's diverse natural playground



Green tropics of Khareef in Salalah
Jebel Shams mountain has the world’s SECOND largest canyon
fishing in Qurayat 
Wadis in Shrqiya
Sandy desert of Wahiba
Recreation in Oman: scuba diving, mountain biking etc. 

Oman has Gorgeous Arabian Horses and very skilled riders:


Staying Healthy "the Westernized version of this" in Oman



Fresh Fruits available in Oman.  What are the good foods here? 
Why does there seem to be a lack of knowledge or care about the unhealthy intake of sugar, artificial ingredients, and the amount of food in our bodies here?  

My family doesn’t own a dining table. We sit on the floor and eat with our hands.


I really enjoy the experience of being able to eat with my hands and not feel like I’m being a sloppy as they would describe you in the states. 

Traditional Omani Dress and Modern Fashion Trends


I really love that Oman preserves so much of its rich cultural history.  One of them being the traditional dresses of women.  I love fashion and styles and it’s so interesting to me to research about the history of this country and the influences from occupations of countries from abroad that have left an impact on the fashion of the past and present Omani women.  

Sign Language on Television in Oman



Whenever the Sultan appears on television, a small box on the lower left hand corner of the television always appears without fail.  The box contains a woman who uses sign language to express what they are saying in the news.  It got me wondering what kind of sign language it is and also, got me wondering why there is no captioning on most television channels but for the announcements having to do with the Sultan, there are definitely disability accessible equipment standards. 
This observation excited my curiousity to learn more about the knowledge and lack therof, how to go about helping (if even at all) people with physical disabilities in this part of the world who wish to have the same opportunities hearing and non-disability people are fortunate to have.  There are over 110 writings about deaf people and the use of sign language in the Arab countries in the East of the Meditteranean and South Western Asia.  Something interesting to note right off the bat is “Deaf and severely hearing impaired children and young people in urban and rural SSWA have often been treated as sub-human during the past four millennia.  At best, deaf adults were treated as perpetual children, and they continued to be so treated by aid organizsations throughout the 20th century” (M. Miles, 2006-Signs of Development in Deaf South and South West Asia: histories, cultural identities, resistance to cultural Imperialism). 
In South West Asia the renowned writer nicknamed al-Jahiz (776-868 CE), who was himself subjected to social prejudices, wrote one of the world’s earliest treatises rejecting negative attitudes and proclaiming that people with disabilities could be full and worthy members of society (Al-Jahiz, edition 1998).  Apparently in Al-Jahiz’s ‘Book of Animals” he wrote about the different levels of hearing loss and deafness and how people can act in social settings based on the level of handicap (M. Miles, 2006).  “Jepson (1991c) was clear that a ‘significant portion’ of interviewees from various parts of rural India considered deafness a natural thing, a simple fact of life which did not require any special measures, beliefs or behaviour” (M. Miles, 2006).  To me, this is a pretty innovative thing that the Sultan has caught on to when I compare it with other countries in the region of South West Asia and South East Asia.  
I don’t think the reason for no captions and only the presence of a sign language interpretor in the little box on the television channel is because of a lack of understanding of people with various levels of hearing loss.  I could be biased because of my childhood in the West, but I feel that it is a mixture of both a lack of a solid basic understanding of the various levels of hearing loss a person can have as well as a lack of care of the importance a deaf person (who is able to function) can have in a society. I personally can hear people talking but do not hear well enough to hear the types of frequencies of a person’s voice that are on a television speaker.  A lot of people seem to get confused with me being able to speak on a telephone but not hear a television show or movie (I cannot go to the movie theatre without captions on the screen).  People assume that I can hear pretty well in social settings because they may see me talking on a telephone which is something that does not require lip-reading.  Instead, I hear worse in social settings because there is less of a concentration of the sound directly to my ear whereas a phone has direct sound to my ear.  This is just one example of the misunderstandings that can occur in a day that people assume about my hearing loss.  
So yes, I think it could be a little bit about a lack of knoweldge of the levels of hearing loss that exist but it could also be just a lack of people that are known to have a hearing loss?  Do people who lose a lot of hearing in their older age feel too embarrassed in the culture to ask for help or assistance to hear better?  Does this affect how society views people who have disabilities like this?  

The Importance of Reputation



Last night, my sister, Balquees told me she had waited in the car for me for 40 minutes without me knowing that she was out there.  I was really surprised and shocked to hear she had waited so long when she knew exactly where I was sitting and what area of the cafe I was in.  She proceeded to tell me that, finally, an Indian waiter alerted me that my sister was waiting for me in her car in the parking lot (out of plain view).  I grabbed my stuff and walked to the car.  
Balquees greeted me with a quick hello and then a comment that at first confused me, “That guy made me so frustrated”.  I asked her why.  She continued, “I told that Indian man to go and find you and that you were outside.  I waited for 40 minutes because the first time, he went to the cafe and found that woman who is a waitress and told her that her sister was waiting for her and she shooed him away”.  Balquees continued, “I tried to explain to him that you were outside but he just took so long to find you”.  I asked her why she did not just call me on my phone.  She had run out of phone credit.  It troubled me and I became really curious why she did not simply get out of the car and walk the short distance to the cafe to get me.  
Balquees politely explained that in her culture it is not acceptable for her to get out of the car this late at night to just go into the cafe even though it was only to just get me because it is near her house and all the men there are from her neighborhood.  She was worried the men would talk and then her reputation, her family’s reputation would be a little bit tarnished.  The men would talk about wondering why this woman was out alone at night at the hookah bar.  I do not fully understand why this is an issue but it was clear that she was very uncomfortable with getting out of the car at that hour (even though she was wearing a full abaya and hijab).  
I was confused because she went with me and my friend to a hookah restaurant about 20 minutes away from her neighborhood and it was dark when we arrived and that somehow was okay.  I think it was awkward because it was only men outside on the patio I was sitting out on.   Something I never even thought about.  
As a western woman, it is permissible for me to go alone at night to a neighborhood cafe and eat, drink a tea, and have some shisha if I please.  The men will think “oh, that is how her people are, so it’s okay”.  But, if an Omani woman is seen doing the things I do and dressing the way I do, it seems that her reputation and the reputation of her family would be tarnished as that is not how they were raised to act and gain respect from their communities.  
After thinking more about this realization and experience, I decided to research Omani women etiquette on google.com.  

Omani Hospitality=An Extraordinary Thing



         The people are extremely hospitable here in Muscat. I have not been outside of the city yet except to Muttrah which is the famous port right next to Muscat.  There are a few hotels and the Muttrah souk that is always crowded and filled with Frankincense for sale and fabrics and scarves and dresses.  It’s a cool Middle Eastern market place to shop for souvenirs and clothing. So I am not sure if the hospitality is extended this way throughout the country although, i have heard it is so.  
In the last three weeks, I’ve experienced several forms of Omani hospitality. One experience that has happened to us more than once is if we are walking down the road to attempt to find a restaurant or the beach or somewhere, Omanis seem to enjoy offering us a ride to wherever we are going.  They are so hospitable that they invite us in the car before even asking where it is that we need to get to.  It could be 10 minutes away by car for all they know and we could just be looking for a taxi!  My theory is that Omanis know that foreigners get horrendously ripped-off by the non-meter using taxi drivers and they genuinely want us to have a good and happy experience in their beautiful and unique Gulf country so they go out of their way to help out.  Some of them who have given us rides even offer to wait for us to run into the store etc. before they offer to take us back to where we need to go.  I never accept but the idea is so friendly and thoughtful.  All this offering of one’s time actually leaves me wondering why people would be so nice and generous with their money and/or time?  Don’t they have anywhere they were on their way to before they picked us up?  Don’t they have errands to run?  Coming from America, a land where many people live very busy lives with fully-booked schedules and no time to do even their own errands in a day, it seems so strange and almost suspicious to me (at first) that people (and so many of them) are so ready and willing to go out of their way to help a stranger out.  
Where does this hospitality behavior come from?   I truly feel that this hospitality comes from a deeply rooted sense of the desire to preserve the historical culture and tradition of this beautiful nation and its people.  Even just today, we went to the mall to grab a delicious lunch of gourmet hamburgers and it was acceptable to take a ride from someone at the school.  On our way back from the mall as we were walking down the road near the mall, a typical thing happened that would not be socially acceptable in America and many other countries.  An Arab engineer stopped on the side of the road and motioned for us to come across the street.  We did not feel scared as this is a typical type of scenario we've seemed to have experienced in the past. The man barely spoke more than 15 words of English as an accumulation of his entire vocabulary in the language.  He did not seem to understand fully where we needed to go but, remarkably trusted us that we would tell him a safe place to go and that we would be peaceful people.  Is it because this land seems to be slower to develop in some ways that picking up the "modern-day hitchhiker (us)" is not dangerous like it was safe to do in the states in the 50s and 60s?  Just a thought I guess.  The man ended up dropping us off at our school which was about a 5 or 10 minute drive back.  Such a nice person. But, don't these people have something better to do?  Are they just trying to help us avoid being horribly ripped off by the taxis here?  The taxis do not have meters so this could make sense.  
        



Saturday, September 17, 2011

The Middle East and “portable bidets” otherwise known as bathroom hoses How clean are we really kept when using this regularly?



After spending a couple of months in Jordan this summer, it was not a great surprise to me anymore to see the usual bathroom hose throughout Muscat, another Middle Eastern country.  Although, it was a pretty strange surprise when I first saw them everywhere in Jordan.  Now that I’m fairly used to seeing these hoses around, I still cannot accept that they somehow make us “cleaner” like everyone seems to be saying around here.  
I feel like this hose has too close of access to everyone who uses the restroom’s personal areas.  The water seems like it could splash back onto the hose head and that just grosses me out.  But, Arabs seem to swear by the method of cleansing after restroom use and prefer it over using any type of tissue.  My host family’s home didn’t even have any toilet paper in it.  This is a household of 12 people plus myself and no one except me uses toilet paper in the restroom.  Arabs do not enjoy using toilet paper it seems in this region of the world (perhaps more westernized Arabs enjoy this method however) and I want to understand why.  To the western world, using a hose to water your personal area down after restroom use and then not drying with anything makes me cringe.  I want to be able to be dry when I leave the room.  Especially in such a humid and extremely hot climate, I worry that the moisture is too much if you do not dry yourself off afterwards.  So why is it that so many Arabs have been and continue to swear by this method?
Also, do more infections “down there”  occur in this region of the world that uses hoses or are the tissue paper-lovers of The West more affected by unwanted problems in that area?
I looked up whether or not you could catch an infectious disease from a bathroom hose to back up my theory that the water could splash back and it just seems so unsanitary to use these hoses that everyone may use.  Thestraightdope.com came up with an article that explains what disease (or lack thereof) can be caught from a toilet seat.  Growing up in California where toilet seat covers were and are a girl’s best friend in a public toilet, I was surprised to learn that the toilet seat really cannot transfer any diseases to you unless you use it terribly wrongly and not with the intented use.  The seat covers I guess are a way to feel cleaner.  (I still really appreciate them as it is especially gross when someone leaves the seat wet from urine and then I have to go and not sit down while I use the bathroom because there is no seat cover).  
Although using a public toilet is mostly harmless in giving an STD to you, one can still become pretty ill from using a toilet and about 80,000 people actually die a year from germs caught from public restrooms.  So, I found a website that gives tips and interesting facts about using a public restroom that may prove helpful.  
http://www.nutritionlessons.com/health-tips-when-using-public-restrooms.php


       

FSS Goals:

1. *To question my own biases of the Arab and Muslim world


2. *Become aware of how the Middle East has been represented by the West in intellectual discourse and in popular culture


3. *Discover how to accomplish things in this host culture of Oman.


4. *Apply language skills and knowledge


5.*Decide my ISP topic


There will be at least 2-3 blog entries will appear each week.


Blog entries will come from D.I.E.


D.I.E= Describing, interpreting, and evaluating observations and experiences of each day